Engine assembly 6.

Just as the heads came back from the machinist. They had some cracks repaired, studs and air injection removed (it will now be blanked), seats recut and new exhaust guides installed. I was completely satisfied with the work.

Still I checked the clearances, just to see everything in order.

As the seats were recut, the springs had to be repacked. As the new seat is now more deep in the head, we will need to add shims and the set we had from the original engine will not be enough. I prefer to take

measurements with the springs installed. By measuring the distance from the top of the spring disk to the valve cap and adding 2.8mms, You can compare it to the factory data od 33.5 +/-0.3 mms. Nice half day game to get it all sorted.

Engine assembly 5.

Although the original barrels were reusable, we went for new parts for perfection. Many people will tell You to put the parts straight on just as they came out of the box, I would argue with this.

The very first piston came out like this: ring gaps at the same location. This would result oil loss and possibly compression loss.

Although came from the factory in sealed boxes, they were quite a bit dirty. And this type of dirt is evil: machining debris.

As You can see on the edge of this pipe cleaner: alloy dust.

After cleaning, I made a through measurement on the rings, and gaps, piston clearances. This time I was happy to see everything in order.

After fitting the cylinders, I checked the deck heights and counted the compression ratio.

With a preloved crank, and cylinder heads, it is mandatory to check if they make one flat surface before bolting the camshaft housing on, as otherwise the cam will get stucked. Interchanging the heads with some patience, You can come out with an acceptable combination.

Engine assembly 4.

Cleaning the crank with alcohol.

Some assembly lube on the bearings.

Applying and spreading the sealing compound.

When torqued, it should look like this. I hope it is as even as I intended, otherwise I will be in great trouble.

Fitting the cylinder head studs. This time they came from ARP.

Oil thermostat and breather.

I use a very special tool (my mobile) here as the dry fitted oil pressure piston did not wanted to come out. Dont fit anything dry.

Finally the flywheel goes on. Although the pilot bearing was in good condition, I replaced it as it is cheap and now easy to get access. Unlike when in the car... 

Engine assembly 3.

Az összesítés nem áll rendelkezésre. A bejegyzés megtekintéséhez kattints ide.

Suspension 1.

While I was waiting for the damn rod bolts, I fitted the suspension under the car. New bearings, brake parts, reconditioned shocks etc. 

Engine assembly 2.

On the second day I started with bolting on the rods. The factory recommended procedure is to set an initial torque of 20Nms, and then turn the nut an extra 90 degrees. The bolts are ment to be used only once as they stretch during the work.
At this step I made a mistake, that is quite typical, let me tell You this lesson. When fitting the rod bearings, I noticed, that the fixing ear of the bearing is quite tight fit in its groove, but still it fitted. Or at least I thought so. All went fine. I applied a the assemly lube on the spottlessly clean bearing surface put a bit of Loctite on the thread and torqued the bolts to the initial value. The rod was free moving, all jolly good. But when I made the second step of finalizing the setup by turning the nuts the extra 90 degree, one rod got stucked on the shaft. I knew it immediately: the bearing had not seated completely. Although I was aware what I have to do, I better took a walk around the neighborhood to ease the pain! I had to remove that rod, which ment that its bolts were binned. The worst thing was, that I only had 12 bolts to work with, so I had to stop here for 5 days. So what lesson is here to tell: beside taking extra care on unusualy behaving connecting parts, I will never (NEVEREVER) start with 12 con rod bolts. Anything can happen, so I will always have a reserve set. I cant imagine too many more unoying experiencis during an engine build, that having to stop because of such minor and inexpensive parts.

Engine assembly 1.

Finally this fine day arrived: all the parts gathered, all tools at hand, so we started this great chapter of our adventure. Lets build this Turbo engine!

First task was to clean all the parts. When I say "clean", I really-really mean it. 6 hours was barely enough to clean the two halves of the crank. 

Next task is to take precise measurements.

The piston pins were in good condition, with virtually no wear at all.

The small end bushes were just a like. Despite, I picked the best matching pairs. 

Big ends were checked for ovality and general dimension. No severe ovality beyond 0.005mms were found, and the diameter was the same on all 6.

The crankpin was also not showing any wear.

With measuring the thickness of the bearing, the running clearance could be calculated.

Another fine task was to weight match the con rods. To get correct data, we have to take 3 measurements on each con rod.

The con rods should be equal in total weight, and small to big end weight, as the distribution of the mass is dependent.

One has to be VERY careful with this type of scaling, the positioning of the scale, the hanging point and the support is quite delicate. Each con rod should be completely at the same position to get accurate data.

5 of the 6 con rods were in the same weight group, and needed only a very limited grinding to get them equal, but one was some 11gs off the scale. While we might remember, the engine had one piston/cylinder replaced at a point, this time we can tell, that the connecting rod of this piston was also replaced. Unfortunately the weight group was not taken care of. Luckily the part was 11gs more and not less than the rest of the group, so it was quite straight forward to machine it down to spec. Porsche renders the con rods into weight groups, and requires no more than 9gs difference. Now our connecting rods are in 3gs to each other, and all fell into weight group 7.

Paint job

Felsen Grün Metallic